Bonvo - Destination of the Month Turkey

Turkey

Things to do | Getting around

Turkey is a country of great contrasts. Similar in many respects to other Mediterranean countries, its unique history and position, connecting Europe with Asia and the Middle East, makes it special.

While 99% of the population is Muslim, the country is far more urban and western looking than most first time visitors realise and you'll find the trappings of Euro-culture side-by-side with Islamic relics and monuments. Nowhere is this more evident than in Istanbul, where fabulous palaces and ancient churches meet Turkey at its most cosmopolitan. With an internationally renowned programme of arts and culture to rival any city in the world Istanbul is at last gaining the recognition it richly deserves.

Turkey's Aegean coast is its most visited region. Development around some of the more famous beach resorts has been overdone but there are still plenty of quiet spots, not to mention some of the most extensive and best preserved Roman and Greek ruins anywhere. The ruins at Bergama and Ephesus are high on every itinerary, and these are only two of more than thirty major ruins on the coast. But away from the coast Turkey is no less interesting. The geography inland varies enormously. Ranges of high thickly forested mountains rise as you progress from the coast and further north, around Bursa and along the Black Sea Coast, the high ranges are home to Turkey's best ski resorts. In the centre of the country, Konya (the home of the whirling Dervishes) is surrounded by a vast fertile plain, which gives out to the deep valleys and bizarre rock formations of Cappadocia.

In the far East of the country the variety is even more extreme, with the arid semi-desert of the regions bordering the Syrian and Iraqi border contrasting with the lush greenery surrounding the enormous Lake Van, and the high, thickly forested mountains to the north.

In short, no two areas in Turkey are the same and wherever you go you'll be amazed by just how much there is to see. It's the best known destination that you never thought of...

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Things To Do
Turkey first became a popular tourist destination back in the 1960s when it was first stop on the overland routes to India. More recently the country's many first-rate beaches have brought a boom in mass tourism.

But between these two extremes Turkey's huge number of ancient buildings and archaeological sites have always attracted large numbers of visitors to what is without doubt one of the most fascinating and varied countries on earth.

Istanbul
No visit to Turkey is complete without a few days in Istanbul. Unique among cities in that it stretches over two continents Istanbul straddles the Bosphorus with one bank in Europe and the other in Asia.

At various times in its history Istanbul (once Byzantium and then Constantinople) was capital to three successive empires and has the fortresses, palaces and cathedrals to prove it. And, while it may no longer be the country's administrative centre, it's certainly both the cultural and business capital and boasts a nightlife that puts most European cities to shame.

A hard day's sightseeing can be rounded off dining, dancing and drinking into the morning. And if it all gets too much you can always take a relaxing boat trip up the Bosphorus or escape to the nearby Princes islands. Visit in June and you'll find the city in the middle of its cultural festival, the envy of the world.

Bursa
An important Greek and Roman city before becoming the first capital of the Ottoman Empire, Bursa's "Green" Mosque and nearby "Green" Tomb of Sultan Çelebi Mehmet I, are two of the most important Islamic sites in the country.

The city also boasts an excellent archaeological museum. As well as this wealth of history Bursa is the centre of Turkey's silk industry - with a huge bazaar where the silk cocoons are auctioned in June and July.

South of Bursa is Uludag, Turkey's premier ski resort, nestling in the shadow of the 2,500m high Mount Uludag.

The Dardanelles - Troy and Gallipoli
Separating Europe and Asia, the Dardanelle Straits are a natural wonder and are redolent with ancient and modern history.

To the south stand the remains of ancient Troy, the city of Homer's fables and of Helen, the mythical beauty that "launched a thousand ships" and started a war (although the two are not related). Also on the south side lies the modern city of Canakkale, home to Turkey's seafood industry and some of the best seafood restaurants in the country.

To the north of the Straits, the Gallipoli Peninsula was the site of a failed invasion by Allied troops during the First World War. Now a national park the sheer beauty of the location lends poignancy to the thousands of well-tended graves, many of Australian and New Zealand servicemen who died here far from their homes.

Kusadasi, Ephesus and Selçuk
One of the busiest tourist destinations on Turkey's Aegean coast, the city of Kusadasi itself has little to recommend it. The reason why people flock here is the nearby ruins, some of the best preserved in the whole of Turkey.

Nearby Selçuk boasts a huge Byzantine fortress and basilica, but the piece de resistance are the shattered ruins of Ephesus. Once the second largest city in the Roman Empire even earlier parts of Ephesus date back to 1000-1500BC. The Roman remains are the best preserved however, and you can still see the colonnades and façades that fronted the buildings lining the intact paved thoroughfares of this once thriving city.

Legend has it that the Virgin Mary herself visited the city in around 40AD, whereas the Temple of Artemis here (6th century BC, no longer standing) was numbered among the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Truly awe-inspiring.

The Turkish Riviera
Often called the Turkish Riviera, the Aegean coast between Bodrum and Kas is home to most of Turkey's tourist resorts. Over-development is a problem, although many places have managed to retain some of their charm.

Bodrum has its Crusader castle and some Roman ruins. It also boasts the most extensive nightlife on the coast including the world's largest floating disco, which sets sail when the on-shore clubs close at 04h00.

To the south Fethiye, Dalyan, Patara, and Kas all offer a good mix of ancient sites, sandy beaches and busy nightlife.

Antalya and Environs
Antalya with its fashionable old quarter, ancient mosques and Roman walls, together with its proximity to good beaches on Turkey's Mediterranean coast has long been popular with tourists.

It's also a great base for visiting the region's many well preserved ancient cities such as Telmessos, Perge and Aspendos. Also popular is nearby Olympus, a Roman city with a great beach and home to the Chimera, an eternal flame emerging naturally from a rocky crag that was used as an oracle by the ancients.

Pamukkale
The natural hot spring of Pamukkale - near the southern city of Denizli, has fascinated people for thousands of years.

Calcium carbonate deposited by the waters over millennia has created a beautiful fairytale castle of soft white stone. The believed therapeutic powers of the water were enough to encourage the founding of the adjacent ancient city of Hieropolis whose ruins are particularly well preserved.

Konya
Just one of Turkey's many important religious centres, Konya is home to Sufi Islam's Whirling Dervishes, whose members achieve oneness with god by spinning themselves into a trance in special ceremonies held every December.

There is a museum to the Sufi founder Mevlana, and the city also boasts a number of fine mosques built by the Selçuks - the first Muslim invaders of Turkey. The city is also a good jumping off point for an exploration of the entire Cappadocia region, with its unusual cave dwellings and bizarre rock formations, one of the most interesting areas in the whole of Turkey.

Cappadocia
A unique mix of geology and history make Cappadocia one of Turkey's most fascinating regions. Volcanic activity combined with wind and weather erosion has shaped the local rock into bizarre fairy chimneys. During the Byzantine era whole valleys were dug out to build monastery complexes, decorated with elaborate frescoes, while the threat of invasion saw the construction of immense underground cities.

The town of Guzelyurt is one of the best areas for seeing this traditional type of housing. In the city's old town and the adjacent Monastery Valley you can see still-inhabited rock houses as well as many churches. You can also visit the traditional stone Hans, a one-time important feature of the transport infrastructure. Mini-settlements, they were located approximately a day's ride apart from each other along major caravan routes. Look out for one of the best preserved around the regional centre of Anksaray.

One of the best ways to see this surreal landscape is by hot air balloon. Though a bit pricey, you won't regret it as you float over the strange pink-hued peaks, the other-worldly shapes spiralling up towards you. Balloons depart daily at sunrise for 45-minute or one-and-a-half-hour flights.

Make sure you leave yourself enough time for a drink here: the soft volcanic soil in the area is ideal for growing grapes and the region produces some of Turkey's best wines.

Ankara, Safranbolu
A busy modern capital, what Ankara lacks in charm and nightlife it makes up for with one of the best museums in Europe - the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, which boasts a well presented collection covering ten millennia housed in an old Ottoman complex.

Ankara's Byzantine castle complex is worth a visit too. To the north of Ankara, the town of Safranbolu was once home to the saffron trade but these days most visitors come to see the old town where the beautiful timber-framed houses that were once found everywhere in Turkey have been wonderfully preserved.

Trabzon
A busy fishing port Trabzon is home of the Black sea anchovy trade and you'll find local restaurants offering local specialities such as "anchovy bread".

Founded in the 8th century BC by settlers from Greece, the Black Sea port is a mix of romantic ancient and ugly modern architecture. The town itself boasts a few excellent ancient sites such as the well-preserved 13th-century cathedral of Aya Sofya but the surroundings hide the real treasures of the area. About 50km to the south, in the Vadisi National Park, are the remains of the Greek Orthodox Sumela Monastery, set breathtakingly high into a sheer cliff-face.

Van
The city of Van sits on the Eastern Shore of an immense turquoise soda lake, surrounded by high mountains and offers some of the most achingly beautiful scenery in Turkey.

The region is steeped in history and was once the centre of a forgotten culture. The Urartians' short-lived Empire stretched from Eastern Turkey into Iran and the Empire's wealth and greatness is demonstrated in the many remains of palaces, castles and religious buildings located around the lake. Of the numerous ruined churches in the area, the most beautiful is Akdamar, which sits on a tiny island on the lake and is covered with intricate relief carvings. Lake Van itself, with its high soda content, is great for swimming - as long as you don't swallow the water.

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Getting Around
Getting around Turkey can prove to be an "interesting" experience. The roads are not particularly extensive or kept in a state of good repair. The country's few motorways are confined to the region west of Ankara. The majority of main highways have only two lanes and driving on them can be somewhat unnerving in heavy traffic or bad weather. Car hire is expensive and, away from the main cities and tourist resorts, almost non-existent.

The rail network is neither extensive nor fast but it's delightfully antiquated and extremely cheap. Turkish Airlines operates regular services to all the main Turkish airports and given the chance most Turks would opt to fly around the country. However air tickets are expensive, meaning that most people opt to travel around with the many excellent private bus companies offering services all over the country.

The Islamic public holidays of Ramadan and Kurban Bayram are popular times for city dwellers to visit their hometowns and you may find tickets for all forms of transport in short supply.

By Train
It's bad news for rail travellers as, it has to be said, Turkey's rail network is badly maintained, and the habitual bugbear of many Turkish travellers. There are some good routes but it really isn't the transport method of choice for anyone. Urban commuter services operate in a few larger cities, although only the scenic line on Istanbul's European shore is likely to prove of much use.

However, inter city services run daily to a fixed timetable and are both cheap and a wonderful reminder of how rail travel used to be. They are, however, very slow. Trains on the best maintained line - Istanbul to Ankara take eight to nine hours, while Istanbul to the eastern city of Van takes almost two and a half days. Luckily both individual sleeping cars and couchettes are available on most routes.

International connections are also available in Turkey. From Istanbul you can book direct to most major European cities via either Bulgaria or Greece, while to the east, in 2001, saw the re-opening of direct links to Syria, Iraq and Iran.

By Bus
Turkey's private bus companies are the backbone of the transport system with buses running between all major cities, departing regularly.

In the main tourist regions, timetables can vary alarmingly according to demand and from late September to late May you may find it necessary to take several connecting services. It's still the best way to travel though. On main routes the buses are generally brand new and scrupulously clean, with older models relegated to shorter regional routes.

Numerous companies compete along the same routes so prices are fiercely competitive although you may find it worthwhile paying slightly more for one of the better companies, which make fewer stops. Either way prices are not excessive, averaging around USD3 per 100km.

By Car
Turkey's road network is far from good. There are few multi-lane motorways with those that do exist being confined to the region west of Ankara. Most main roads have a single lane in each direction and more often than not traffic is heavy, fast and intimidating - especially in bad weather. Away from major routes driving can become enjoyable, although many roads in mountain regions and in the east can be impassable for long periods in winter. Drive with caution in rural areas since you're likely to encounter farm carts and animals in the road. Petrol is reasonably priced by European standards costing around USD1 a litre.

Although it might seem that locals rarely adhere to speed restrictions, for reasons of safety you shouldn't exceed these limits. Additionally, if you're driving a foreign registered or hire car you may find the Traffic Police more inclined to pull you over, and you'll be fined.

Turkey has a particularly high traffic accident rate so take particular care when travelling by road.
Foreign driving licenses are valid, but an International Driver's Permit is recommended for those who wish to drive while in Turkey.
International Driving permits are necessary for trips of over three months.
Green Card insurance is required if you plan to bring your own car into Turkey.
Traffic travels on the right and overtakes on the left-hand side.
The minimum driving age in Turkey is 18.
The speed limits in Turkey are 50km per hour (31mph) in built up residential areas, 90km per hour (56mph) on open roads and 120km per hour (74mph) on motorways.
Tolls are charged on motorways between Erdine-Istanbul, Istanbul-Izmit, Gebze-Izmit, Tsarsus-Pozanti, Ankara-Gerede and Izmir-Cesme.
The driver and all passengers must wear seatbelts if fitted, although in truth a lot of locals don't bother - it's all part of Turkey's machismo culture.
There is no metered parking in Turkey, instead parking officials collect fees for parking your car.
The sign reading "Park Yapilmaz" means no parking.

By Air
Given the difficulties of travelling by road and rail, Turkey's internal air network sees extensive use. However currently all internal routes are served only by the loss-making national carrier, Turkish Airlines and tickets are far from cheap.

There is no separate departure tax payable when leaving Turkey. All applicable airport charges are included in ticket prices.

By Boat
There are private ferry services between a number of Turkey's Aegean ports and resorts and Greek islands in the Aegean: Routes include Ayvalik-Lesbos, Kusadasi-Samos, Bodrum-Kos, Marmaris-Rhodes and Kas-Kastellorizo. Operators and services vary according to season. Peak summer services operate between June and late September when you may find more than one service a day, falling to one a week or none at all in deepest winter.

Ferries operated by the Turkish Maritime Organisation (TDI. Tel: +90 (0)212-249-7178) leave from several terminals in Istanbul of which the most useful for visitors is Eminönü. From here ferries depart to Kadiköy and Üsküdar on the Asian shore, and nearly a dozen times a day to the Princes Islands.

From Tasucu on Turkey's East Mediterranean coast there are daily hydrofoils and ferries to Girne (Kyrene) in North Cyprus. There is also a less regular summer-only service to Girne from Antalya.