Sydney
Things to do |
Getting around
Australia is a golden country and Sydney is its crowning glory. A city of breathtaking beauty this sprawling metropolis offers everything to everyone. Don't say it to a native of Melbourne but Sydney for most people counts as Australia's capital in everything but name.
The most famous of the country's attractions are here in the distinctive twin shapes of the Harbour Bridge and the billowing Opera House and following on the worldwide success of the 2000 Olympics held in the city Sydney is very much in the ascendancy, on a global scale.
The first city to be established in Australia Sydney was originally settled by the British in 1788, fifty years before Melbourne. This has given Sydney a historical character that most cities in Australia naturally lack, epitomised in The Rocks old quarter of the city. The city also occupies a quite breathtaking natural aspect, from the blue waters of the harbour to the mountain range of the Great Dividing Range that rises away to the West.
The Sydney Opera House and the Harbour Bridge make the harbour one of the most impressive city vistas anywhere, easily comparable to San Francisco or the Manhattan skyline for sheer wow-factor. Then in the Olympic Village is Stadium Australia, one of the greatest international sports stadia ever built and a triumphant monument to all of Australia's sporting excellence.
You'd think all this might have gone to Sydney's head, and in many ways you're right. Still buoyed from the Olympics the city and its inhabitants ride the crest of a wave like one of the surfers on world-famous Bondi beach. The nightlife is where you'll see most of this enthusiasm manifest itself as natural exuberance creates a kaleidoscopic mixture of fine dining, culture and clubbing.
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Things To Do
Sydney is one of those few cities in the world where you don't have to do very much to have a great time. The beauty of the natural surroundings and the spectacular vista of the harbour are the highlights of a visit. However, the city also offers plenty of attractions to get you out and about.
The Opera House
The most recognisable of Sydney's icons, the distinctive sight of the Opera House is famous the world over. 14 years in construction it opened in 1973 but still remains one of the most remarkable modern buildings in the world.
Naturally it is predominantly an auditorium and offers a full programme of opera and other stage performances but it is possible to take a variety of guided tours around the building, either around the front of the house or backstage. You can even arrange specialist tours, when qualified experts give you the full insight into the architecture and unique design of the opera house.
Sydney Harbour Bridge
If the Opera House is the most recognisable Sydney image, the Harbour Bridge is the most dominant. From anywhere on the city's quay it is a fantastic photo opportunity but there are a couple of ways to get even more out of it.
You can either walk along to the first pylon and climb the 200 steps to the viewing platform, from where you can obtain the best vantage point to take in the city skyline, or do the awesome bridge climb, which involves hooking up a safety line and climbing all the way along the arch right to the very top. Both day and night climbs are available; the latter is particularly spectacular as the city lights are reflected in the water of Sydney Harbour - 134metres below you. A reasonable level of fitness is needed to complete the climb, with the full walk taking three hours to complete
Australian Museum
The Australian Museum of Sydney is arguably one of the best natural history museums in the world. The large collection is drawn from all over Australia and demonstrates the remarkable uniqueness and diversity of flora and fauna of the country.
The Aboriginal Gallery is particularly fascinating, displaying artefacts and items relating to the culture of the indigenous inhabitants of the country. Performances of Aboriginal ceremonial dance and story add to the experience. The museum also hosts a year-round programme of excellent lectures and special exhibitions that is worth checking out when you get there - there might just be something to interest you.
Sydney Aquarium
The largest aquarium in the Southern Hemisphere the Sydney Aquarium cannot be missed. One of the world's great coastal cities, Sydney's relationship with the sea has always been a healthy one, and in this marvellous living museum you can see just some of the remarkable animals that inhabit the waters around Australia. Of particular note is the Great Barrier Reef display and, of course, the sharks, while the platypus section allows you a glimpse of Australia's freshwater marine life.
While you're around Darling Harbour you should also check out the other attractions on offer including the IMAX cinema, the National Maritime Museum and the many shops, bars and restaurants.
Taronga Zoo & Sydney Ferries
Beautifully located on the north shore of the harbour, the progressive and modern Taronga Zoo offers an ideal opportunity to meet some of the wildlife that makes up Australia's unique eco-system. Wombats, koalas, platypuses and, of course, snakes are just some of the inhabitants here. It is said that the giraffes have the best views of Sydney!
The ferry from Circular Quay that goes to the zoo also provides an opportunity to get a great view of the Sydney skyline. From the ferry terminal, you can walk, take the bus or for a more spectacular journey, take the cable car to the zoo's main entrance.
Taking any of the ferries departing from Circular Quay is a great way of discovering different parts of the city. Take a ferry to Manly and admire the bay, or take one to Darling Harbour and pass under Sydney Harbour Bridge. There are eight different routes to choose from.
Museum of Sydney
Whereas the Australia Museum covers the whole continent, the Sydney Museum concentrates on the tiny portion of it occupied by Sydney. You'll certainly get more out of your stay in Sydney if you learn a little about the short history of this gorgeous city and the Sydney Museum is the place to do it. Just a short walk from the central boardwalk of Circular Quay it is well worth dropping in. The preserved original remains of Australia's first Government House lie underneath the museum and you can see them exposed inside.
Bondi Beach
The most famous beach in Sydney and one of the best known in the world, Bondi is the home of the long blonde-haired surf dude of Australian stereotype. But don't be intimidated, although this is home to the best surfers in the world it is also surprisingly egalitarian and very easy going on the surf novice.
Hire yourself a surf or boogie board and let yourself go - you can even get a surf tutor to show you the ropes. Stick to surfing areas though, surfboards and swimmers don't mix, and be prepared to fall off. A lot. After you've tired of sea and beach life head for one of Bondi's many beach bars or restaurants and grab yourself an aprĖs-surf drink or meal and watch the real professionals carving up the waves. Note that there are shark nets so you don't have to worry on that score, but still take care in the water and don't let bravado outstrip your ability. The guys who make it look easy have been doing it for years. And when you're swimming on Bondi, stay between the flags, if in doubt about where the safe area is, ask a lifeguard.
Sydney Tower
Centrally located, Sydney Tower offers the best views available over the city, its harbour and parks. The Observation Deck, at 250m above street level, is the ideal place to get a general idea of Sydney's skyline. Either by day or by night, it is an exhilarating experience.
If the views from the observation deck aren't thrilling enough for you, though, you can head one level up to the Skywalk, an outdoor glass-floored viewing platform from which you can see the city quite literally below your feet.
The other attraction in the tower, OzTrek, is an altogether more sedate experience. Based on the ground floor, it consists of a virtual ride around Sydney and Australia, and gives visitors a good idea of what to expect while travelling around Oz.
It's also worth stopping off at one or other of the two restaurants in the tower, both of which have revolving floors allowing 360-degree panoramic views. Enough to satisfy any appetite.
Powerhouse Museum
Near the Darling Harbour site this award-winning museum is a homage to human industry. The massive site once housed Sydney's power station and now is home to 25 exhibition galleries.
The displays range far and wide over design, science and technology, from clothing fashions through the ages to the steam engines and machinery of the industrial revolution. Hands-on exhibits allow kids to test the principles of science for themselves while the transport galleries trace mankind's harnessing of nature from horsepower to the internal combustion engine and beyond. The museum has an Australian focus through much of it, and concentrates on specific achievements Down Under as well as the great migration that initially brought the ancestors of modern-day Australians to the continent.
Sydney Harbour
Between the two towering structures of Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House, Circular Quay is a favourite boardwalk. This pleasant area is filled with street entertainers, musicians and plenty of bars and restaurants. Meanwhile further around the waterfront "The Rocks" area is a preserved part of historical Sydney - cobbled streets and squares hide traditional pubs and small shops ideal for browsing.
You can even take tours of Shark, Clarke, Rhodd and Goat islands, which lie in the harbour and form the Sydney Harbour National Park. The rocky island of Fort Denison is worth a visit - once a prison it became a fort in the 19th century as part of Sydney's harbour defences. Check at the Sydney Harbour National Parks Information Centre (110 George Street, The Rocks) for details of tours.
Water Tours
Sydney from the water is magnificent and a variety of options exist for people who want to get the sea-level view.
Sightseeing ferries run all day from various locations around the harbour. Several companies provide services ranging from express tours to luxurious sunset and dinner cruises.
Enjoy a harbour sightseeing cruise with
Blue Lines (Tel: +61 (0)2-8296-7296) on one of its authentic replicas of a 19th-century paddlesteamer evoking the romance of early colonial days. Other interesting tour companies include Bounty Cruises (Tel: +61 (0)2-9247-1789) whose replica of the famous mutiny vessel sails from The Rocks daily (group bookings only).
Captain Cook Cruises (Tel: +61 (0)2-9206-1111) have a wide range of sightseeing vessels including the world's first wind and solar powered vessel as well as the sleek MV Sydney 2000 built as a stunning new addition to the waterfront for the Olympic Games. The sunset harbour dining cruise is perfect for a special occasion.
Matilda Cruises (Tel: +61 (0)2-9264-7377) offers sightseeing aboard one of its sleek, modern twin-hulled catamarans which ensure both stability and comfort. Take your pick from the aptly named hour-long Rocket Express Harbour Cruise, or a range of lunch and dinner cruises.
Parks
What makes Sydney such a pleasant place to live and visit is the way in which the city blends so harmoniously with nature. With water never very far away, there is also a huge expanse of green space that cuts a swathe through the city centre. Slap bang in the middle of Sydney, Hyde Park is the most central of the string of city parks, making it an ideal place to enjoy a picnic or have a rest while sightseeing. The park has a number of its own attractions to boot, not least St Mary's Cathedral, Archibald Fountain and the Anzac War Memorial.
Next to Hyde Park is the Domain, home to the Art Gallery of New South Wales and plenty of trees that make for a pleasant, shady walk, while the Royal Botanical Gardens lead right up to the waterfront, and therefore have great bay views, overlooking Sydney Opera House and Fort Denison. Sydney Harbour National Park, stretching around the bay, completes the picture.
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Getting Around
Getting to Sydney, it has to be said, is a bit of a bore, and you just have to swallow the bitter pill - it's miles away from anywhere. Getting around Sydney, however, is remarkably easy for such a spread-out city due to a combination of a wide range of public transport options, light traffic by the standards of many European and American cities, and a city centre that's small enough to make walking feasible.
To and From the Airport
Sydney International Airport
Sydney's international airport is located 11km south of the city centre near Botany Bay. Several options exist for getting to the nearby city centre and the surrounding areas that sprawl out from it. Depending on the length of incoming flight and the time of day you land you are quite likely to be jet-lagged and tired - most people landing in Sydney are to some extent or another. It often makes sense to forego economy for convenience and get to your hotel as quickly as possible.
Trains
Since the Olympics of 2000 Sydney International has been linked to the city centre by the fast and efficient Airport Line. Trains run regularly between the six city circle stations and the two stations at the domestic and international terminals. From the airport, the ten-minute journey to the centre costs just AUD14.40. Most people using the service immediately notice the poor luggage space to passenger seats ratio, it is one of the favourite bugbears about the service. But, apart from at peak times, you shouldn't have a problem.
If you are planning to stay in Sydney for a few days and travel around, it is cheaper to buy a Weekly Red Pass from the airport and ask for the airport return ticket to be included. It costs AUD46.
Taxis
As it is the world over, a taxi into the city is by far the easiest option for new arrivals. There are ranks at each terminal. A taxi ride should cost you no more than AUD35 into the city, or up to AUD65 out to Manly.
Busses
Airport Express buses run frequently between the airport and the city, 06h00-22h00 daily. Tickets for the bus should be bought onboard from the driver and cost AUD12.00. There are four different routes to different parts of the city so ensure you board the correct bus - Sydney is a big place and you can do without ending up miles from your hotel on your first evening. Staff at the bus stops should be able to help you, otherwise ask the driver before you buy your ticket.
Public Transport
Buses
Sydney has a great bus system. Buses are coloured blue and white and all bear their destination and route number on the front. You should rely on this rather than any sense of direction you may pick up while in the city. The one-way system means that often the bus takes a rather circuitous route out of the city centre, but the destination is always correct. Fares vary according to destination, working on a zonal basis. The minimum fare is AUD1.80. You pay the driver when you board and they'll issue your ticket. If you don't know how much to pay drivers should be able to help you if you state your destination. Although it's hardly ever required that you have the exact money to hand, it is an idea to keep some small change handy for hopping on and off public transport.
Travelcards can be purchased from newsagents and must be shown or punched at the machine behind the door on boarding the bus. Bus routes cover the whole city, and leave from streets all over Sydney. Circular Quay is a popular destination and probably the one you'll travel to most often. Journey times can be affected at peak hours and you should allow plenty of extra travelling time if you choose to take the bus.
Monorail
Sydney's monorail shuttles people from the city centre to the tourist hotspot of Darling Harbour. It can be useful to access the attractions that are located in Darling but naturally with one route it won't be something you use very often. Some people think the monorail something of an eyesore as well but tourists who don't have to live with it more often than not find it a good experience, especially for the elevated views it provides.
Trains
Sydney's suburban train system is quite extensive, reasonably reliable and, best of all, avoids Sydney's amazingly complicated one-way road system. Fares vary according to how far you are going but tend to be pretty reasonable. Central Station is the main hub from where routes extend out to the suburbs. There are notable gaps on the network immediately surrounding the central area, but the tourist shouldn't be greatly inconvenienced by these as they are mainly residential areas of the city. A colour-coded map simplifies the network and should help you to navigate. The underground loop connects most places of note in the city centre.
Four principal stops around the loop are: Central Station on the southern edge of the city centre, Wynyard (George Street near Martin Place), Circular Quay, and Museum (Elizabeth Street at Liverpool Street) and back to Central. The Olympic village and stadium of 2000 is linked to the network by a fast train service with connections at Central and Wynyard. Tickets must be bought before you travel. A return journey in the city centre at off-peak times costs AUD6.00.
Ferries
Of course there are the ferries as well, probably the most pleasant way to travel around the city. All ferry routes start at Circular Quay, and go out to over 30 destinations. The ferry to Manly is a great way to see Sydney - or if you're in a rush, get the more expensive JetCat. At Manly and Circular Quay, buy your tickets at the office, at other stops buy them on board. Water taxis operate in the harbour too, but are liable to get a bit pricey and should be booked well in advance (Tel: 13-1500).
Driving
Points to consider:
- Tourists driving in Australia must carry their national driving licence and passport at all times.
- If the licence is not in English, you must also carry an International Driving Permit or a translation of the licence into English. These must be carried along with your national driving licence.
- Driving is on the left and you must overtake on the right.
- Seat belts must be worn where fitted.
- In general the speed limit is 60km per hour (35mph) in cities, and 80-110km per hour (50-68mph) on highways unless otherwise stated.
- Slightly different regulations apply state to state so you should check as you move about the country, and carefully observe road signs.
- Note that left turning on red lights is permitted only where road signs indicate it.
- Australia is a country of car-owners - although the city transport options are good, a car is better for exploring outside of Sydney.
- Major car hire firms can be found at the airport and in the city centre.
Taxis
Taxis are common and easy to catch from ranks around the city centre or can be hailed in the street. If a taxi is available for hire it will have its roof mounted orange light switched on. Prices are quite reasonable but taxis become rarer in the evenings when pubs shut, and you should ideally book if you need a cab around then.
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