Malaysia

Climate | Things to do | Getting around


The cultural melting pot of Southeast Asia, Malaysia seamlessly blends the flavours of the Orient, India and Europe.

The country naturally focuses on its new millennium metropolis of a capital, Kuala Lumpur. With the iconic Petronas Towers lighting the way, KL, as it's commonly known, has the polished panache of a Western capital combined with the frenetic nature of an Asian city, making it the ideal gateway to the rest of Malaysia and, indeed, to Southeast Asia.

It's difficult to believe you're in the same country when you travel from urban KL out into the countryside. With three-quarters of the land covered in dense and ancient rainforest, it is rich in natural attractions that will appeal to the spirit of adventure in us all. Explore Borneo and the states of Sabah and Sarawak, and you'll find Malay tribes still inhabiting longhouse river settlements just as their forefathers did for centuries before - an amazing juxtaposition with the modern capital.

Although the inhabitants exhibit the customary frenetic nature of this part of the world, Malaysia manages to somehow exude an air of laid back casualness, an insouciance born of the fact that for centuries people have chosen to come here without Malaysia itself having to make much effort.

Visitors haven't always been as welcome as today's tourists, but that doesn't stop the traditional Malay hospitality from being expressed. Prepare to slip into Southeast Asian life, with ease...

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Climate
Generally speaking Malaysia is split into wet and dry seasons, however these occur at different times in different areas of the country. Peninsular Malaysia experiences an equatorial climate, meaning that for most of the year temperatures are hot and humidity high. There are slight variations through the seasons but the most distinctive variation occurs with the onset of the monsoon, and the torrential rains it brings.

In East Peninsular Malaysia the monsoon occurs between Nov-Feb. The rest of the peninsula has two distinctive wet seasons, between Oct-Nov and Apr-May. In between wet periods the weather is extremely hot and drought in the hottest months is not an uncommon occurrence. The East Malaysia states of Sarawak and Sabah have a less volatile climate. These states are only affected by the northeast monsoon, making the wettest months Nov-Feb each year. Inland areas experience a relatively even spread of rainfall throughout the year, though typhoons and coastal storms do occur. June and July are extremely hot in Sarawak whereas the dry months tend to be April and August in Sabah. Droughts are not uncommon.

Throughout the country you are best advised to try to avoid both the wettest and the driest months. At all times of year the climate is a lot warmer than Europeans and Westerners will be used to and you should pack appropriately. Light but waterproof clothing is essential during any wet season.

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Things To Do
Malaysia has it all. A blend of fascinating cities, spectacular scenery and a charming, alluring culture that keeps people coming back for more.

Penang Island
A bustling port, Penang has a delightful old-world atmosphere that is emphasised by its Baba-Nyonya houses (the Baba-Nyonya culture evolved from marriages between Chinese settlers and local Malays), colonial buildings and winding, narrow streets lined with little old shops.

North of the island is the popular beach area that welcomes thousands of visitors every year. Just down the winding coast road is the fishing village and some of the best seafood the country can offer, while nearby, visitors can either take a round-island trip by motorbike or stop at the butterfly and forest sanctuaries for a bit of nature watching.

Penang can be reached via the famous round-the-clock ferry or via the 13.5km-long Penang Bridge, one of the longest bridges in the world.

Melaka
Melaka (or Malacca) was the main stopover for traders coming from east and west from the 12th century onwards. Today, the city displays the strong influence of its Portuguese and Dutch colonists in its buildings and customs. The settlement's delightful tiny streets are home to hotels, shops, temples, ironsmiths, antique dealers and restaurants, all flung together with no seeming order. It's a wonderful insight into the chaotic splendour of colonial Malaysia.

The end of June sees the celebration of the Fiesta San Pedro, which is a treat for the eyes, ears and taste buds with processions and feasts honouring the town's patron saint.

Kuching
The capital of East Malaysia, Kuching is a serene settlement sitting on the Sarawak River. It has managed to retain a flavour of traditional Malaysia more effectively than Kuala Lumpur, and is definitely the place to come to if you want to wean yourself away from the Westernised cities without going too far from creature comforts.

There is plenty to see in the centre. The view from the modern Civic Centre reveals a city surrounded by greenery and spectacular uplands. Chinese temples and pagodas are mixed with Victorian-era buildings and the modern buildings of the last century. In the Sarawak Museum you can see artefacts gathered from the many tribes that have inhabited (and continue to inhabit) this varied territory. The revamped waterfront is a great place to meet and eat, while the city bazaar is full of small traders and craftsmen willing to bargain for items.

Cruising down the Sarawak by sampan offers the best views of the Malay Kampungs that line the banks.

Forest Reserves and National Parks
Malaysian forests cover an area almost the size of the United Kingdom. Several zones have been marked out as forest reserves and allow visitors in to admire the vast diversity of nature in a microcosm. The majority of these can be found in Pahang on the Peninsula, and Sabah and Sarawak in East Malaysia.

Probably reaching its hundred-millionth birthday soon, the rainforest of Taman Negara's forest reserve (three hours from Kuala Lumpur by car) is an experience of nature not to be missed. Though many of the animals have migrated deeper into the jungle since visitors have become more frequent, you still see the occasional tapir, mouse deer or monkey. Take the three-hour upstream ride on the meandering Tembiling River, wave to native children and enjoy the sounds of the forest.

Some other parks of note include: the Gunung Gading Park (near Kuching, Sarawak) for the world's largest flower; the Rafflesia, the Niah and Gunung Mulu National Parks (North Sarawak near Miri) for the largest limestone cave system in the world and thousands of bats; and the orangutan sanctuary in Sepilok (Sabah) to see the "Wild Man of Borneo"

Lakes and Waterfalls
There aren't many lakes in Malaysia, but those that there are deserve a mention.

Tasik Bera, in Southwest Pahang, east of Kuala Lumpur, is the largest freshwater lake in Malaysia and home to the Semelai aborigines who still follow their traditional way of life. Tasik Chini (see picture, right) is reputedly the site of an ancient Khmer city. Myth also has it that a monster lurks within, guarding the lake and the city of gold that lies beneath the water.

Waterfalls are abundant; one of the most popular is situated at Lata Kinjang (two hours' drive north of Kuala Lumpur, near to Tapah) along the mountain road through the Cameron Highlands. Thousands of gallons of water cascade over a series of falls over 100m high. A bridge across part of the falls provides a spectacular view.

Sarawak Cultural Village
The region of Sarawak in Borneo is the best place in the country for seeing traditional Malaysian culture, and in the Sarawak Cultural Village near to Kuching you can see the various dwellings and customs of many of the native tribes. The Longhouses, practically a covered street and shared dwelling, are a fascinating anachronism compared to the steel and glass cityscape of KL.

The Bidayuh people who inhabit the Sarawak and Sedong river valleys haven't changed their way of life for centuries. You can still see ingenious bamboo plumbing and architecture in their traditional dwellings, and hear music played with primitive gongs and carved bamboo instruments. Equally interesting are the huts of the Panan, the hunter-gatherers of the rainforest who'll teach the art of the blowpipe. The Melanau Farmhouse and the Chinese Farmhouse are some of the larger structures.

Sarawak Cultural Village, Pantai Damai, Santubong, Kuching. Admission: RM60, adults; RM30, children.

Diving and Beaches
Malaysia's dive sites are among the best in the world. Clear deep water and excellent visibility provide perfect access to the brilliant coral and graceful colourful fish surrounding the islands of the Peninsula's east and west coasts.

The islands off Sabah's East Coast are also famous for their dive trips and superb marine life, though the spectre of pirates still stalks the area in this day and age.

Even if diving is not your style, the islands off the Peninsula's East Coast are a joy for even the most land-bound tourist. Tioman Island in particular is a haven of peace and tranquillity with its silky white sand beaches, where you can laze in a hammock in the shade of a palm tree, lulled to sleep by the lapping of the waves against the shore and a gentle breeze. The more water-inclined can snorkel and swim in crystal-blue waters. If you prefer a jungle trek, some islands are large enough to make it worth your while to take along thick-soled shoes for this purpose.

Mountain Climbing
The tallest peak in Southeast Asia at 4101m, the ascent of Mount Kinabalu takes you from the humidity of equatorial jungle to nerve-numbing ice.

Located in Sabah, it is a bit of an effort to get to the mountain but the sense of achievement when you're standing on the roof of Southeast Asia is well worth it. To see the peak at its very best, trained guides will wake you up to hike to the summit at the unearthly hour of 3 in the morning to watch the sunrise.

Another peak that rewards your effort is Mount Tahan in Pahang, which is lower but steeper than Kinabalu. This is the highest point on Peninsular Malaysia but isn't particularly accessible, requiring a hike of several days to reach the peak and ascend it. Local guides are essential. Physical training for long precipitous treks is highly recommended.

Petronas Twin Towers
When in Kuala Lumpur it's essential to take a free ride up to the Skybridge that spans the 41st and 42nd floors of the Petronas Twin Towers.

Opened officially in 1999, these mammoths of steel, aluminium and glass rise above every building in Kuala Lumpur and almost every other building in the world. The views are incredible, but visitors should make sure they get here early - only 800 people are allowed up to the skybridge every day, and queues grow quickly.

Shopping Malls and Markets
Malaysia is shoppers' seventh heaven. Not only can you find the latest, best and hippest products, you can also find the best bargains.

Shopping centres and supermarkets dot the cities with the largest malls in Kuala Lumpur's Golden Triangle, where you'll find Western designers and high street chains. Night markets and bazaars are prevalent in all parts of Malaysia where bargaining and sampling are encouraged - in very loud voices. On the East Coast, markets are largely for produce and livestock, while smaller ones that move around cities carry consumer goods, food and vegetables. Visit one for a true taste of Malaysia.

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Getting Around
Peninsular Malaysia presents no difficulties in getting around. Roads and highways extend to all nooks and crannies of the territory. Trains are frequent and inexpensive, while intercity buses run all day and night, depending on where you want to go. There are daily flights to all major cities and towns. A ferry service carries passengers and vehicles between Penang Island and the mainland or you might drive across the longest bridge in Southeast Asia instead.

The road and rail system is less developed in Sabah and Sarawak. Travel is best done by flight or, if you're looking to experience the true in-the-jungle feeling, by boat.

When travelling, you should keep an eye out for the holiday season rush. This generally occurs during the Hari Raya Puasa and Chinese New Year festivals and year-end school holidays. Book your train/bus/flight ticket well in advance to avoid being left marooned wherever you may be.

By Train
Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad (KTMB), the Malaysian railway company, maintains its services efficiently on the Peninsula. The network spans from Padang Besar on the Thai border in the north, to Singapore in the south. Lines also connect to Tumpat, the furthest stop northeast of the peninsula.

The ride may be a little bumpy, considering the tracks were installed around World War II, but upgrading is underway to accommodate newer trains in the future. You have the choice of seat, sleeping berth or compartment, according to travel class.

For real train enthusiasts there is also the super-luxury Eastern and Oriental Express, which resembles something out of an Agatha Christie novel, leaving from Singapore and going all the way up to northern Thailand.

Tickets can be bought at all train stations, booths carrying the KTMB logo, over the Internet or by phone. Check for special passes if you are taking the train for more than one trip.

By Bus
Coach buses are the cheapest way to travel anywhere in the country, but journeys can be long and arduous. Although there is no national network the majority of public buses are air-conditioned and sometimes even show a movie on longer journeys (at full volume whether you like it or not). Bus transport also tends to take less time than rail, though naturally coaches lack some of the facilities and comfort of trains. There are buses ranging from the cheap, dark and cranky to curtained monstrosities that tout themselves as Executive Coaches. Air conditioning is essential for long journeys and worth paying a bit extra for.

Pit-stops are made every couple of hours or so, to allow some leg-stretching and often the chance to buy refreshments from local touts. Tickets are generally sold for immediate travel and can be bought at intercity bus counters. Destinations are posted in bold letters but ticket sellers helpfully yell destinations out as they wait for passengers to board.

Local companies provide links between all cities and beyond to popular tourist destinations. It is always possible to privately charter a bus as well should you desire to travel beyond the scheduled routes offered. The bus station within each city is usually centrally located and ticket offices for a variety of companies can be found within. Tickets can be bought for immediate travel and rarely have to be booked a long time in advance.

By Car
Driving yourself is probably the most convenient, if not the cheapest way to travel. Scenic well-maintained highways connect all points on the Malaysian Peninsula but if you prefer a more adventurous route and have the time, take the old roads that twist and meander around the coastline, giving you intermittent glimpses of the sea. Major international car rental services are available in the larger towns.

Points to consider:

• The speed limit on highways ranges from 60km to 110km/hour.
• Speeding is common, and traffic police speed traps are employed along many stretches. Fines can be high.
• Driving under intoxication is taken very seriously. Being jailed overnight and becoming poorer by a significant amount of money would not be too happy a holiday memory.
• Parking in big cities most commonly uses either the meter or coupon system.
• Smaller towns may have parking attendants that charge a rate of 30 sen per half-hour in public parking lots.
• Private lots mostly in commercial buildings charge more. Many people park where they like, but often come back to find their car has been towed away or a pink slip has been stuck on the windscreen charging them a few hundred ringgit. Don't risk it is the best advice, if your car is towed you'll undoubtedly have great difficulty, inconvenience and expense getting it back.

By Air
Flying is not the cheapest way to get around but is the only practical way to travel between West and East Malaysia, and for several long routes on either portion of the country. There are several flights every day between Kuala Lumpur and other major cities in the country, including at least eight a day between KL and Kuching, the major city in East Malaysia.

Domestic flights to smaller destinations are sometimes as infrequent as twice a week, so make sure you check timetables if you want to go somewhere on impulse. It is often more convenient to travel by road to smaller towns and only use the larger transport hubs to fly around the country.

You can book your flights directly with the airlines, though it is sometimes cheaper to make reservations via travel agents. Internet bookings are also available. Make sure you book early if travelling during Dec-Feb, as successive public holidays throughout that period mean many people are on the move.

An international departure tax of RM40 is payable on airline tickets. This is commonly included in ticket prices, and always included in the case of tickets bought in Malaysia. Otherwise you must pay at the airport. Internal flights carry a domestic tax of RM5, again usually included in ticket prices.

By Boat
Ferries are an essential part of the Malaysian transport infrastructure, connecting the mainland of both East and West Malaysia with the numerous small islands that surround the coast, as well as connecting further afield to international destinations. Port Klang and Penang remain important entry points for international passengers and freight arriving by sea.

One of the most useful daily ferry services in the nation runs at 15-minute intervals between Pulau Pinang (Penang Island) and Butterworth on the Peninsula. These double-decker vessels, named for different islands in Malaysia, carry passengers on the upper deck and vehicles below. All ferries go to the island and back, so don't wait for the one named specifically "Pulau Pinang" - it may not be running that day!

There are also numerous other ferry services linking mainland to other islands or between islands. River boats ply inland waterway routes, including along the Rejang river in Sarawak. Check with travel agents or local tourist offices for more information on individual operators.

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