Hongkong
Things to do |
Getting around
Hong Kong is inarguably one of the most fascinating places on earth. British colonialism formed this tiny island off the Chinese coast into a Western playground, but Hong Kong always retained its Chinese roots - creating one of the most dynamic mixtures of culture anywhere in the world.
If anything though Hong Kong is a law unto itself. Back in Chinese control it was thought that the city would change but nothing could be further from the truth. Tiny Chinese food stalls still sit in the shadow of skyscrapers owned by multinational corporations and on the streets businessmen in thousand dollar suits buy Dim Sum for cents. Hong Kong retains its unique identity, incorporating diverse cultures and delightful contradictions.
Its setting helps of course. One of the most spectacular city vistas on earth Hong Kong city effectively straddles the stretch of water separating it from the mainland. From each side the twin skylines of Hong Kong island on one side and Kowloon on the other glare at each other in a mirror of steel and glass.
You'll also find Hong Kong very much a city of different parts. "Central" rivals any city in the world for its 21st century structures and new millennium facilities, but elsewhere you'll find Chinese markets that could be centuries old and peaceful gardens and temples. Many people come expecting to see the entire island packed with high rise buildings but up above the harbour side begins Hong Kong's national parks, acres of forested greenery, and within an hour of the city you can forget it ever existed.
This capacity to surprise is the real secret to Hong Kong's enduring popularity with visitors. Thereís undercurrents within undercurrents of dynamism underneath the international businesses, shopping malls and restaurants - an alluring puzzle just waiting to be uncovered.
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Things To Do
The real Hong Kong lies behind its entrenched stereotype of big city metropolis - spend a little time here and you'll find a variety of cultures and landscapes that will surprise as much as it will inspire.
Victoria Peak and the Peak Tower
In the mid 19th century, Victoria Peak, the highest point on Hong Kong island, became the most desirable spot to live for the city's wealthy expat residents - due mainly to its relatively cool climate - and a number of these luxurious residences can still be seen today. The hordes of visitors who take the trip to the summit of the peak these days however come predominantly for the spectacular views of the city - arguably some of the most impressive in the world.
The best way to reach the summit is to hop on the peak tram (see below). Once at the top, head for the Peak Tower - that's the unmistakable wok-shaped building that wouldn't look out of place in a sci-fi movie. From the viewing galleries you will have the best possible lookout over the whole of Hong Kong - an unforgettable experience.
Though the views are, for most people, the prime reason for visiting, there are a number of tourist attractions within the Peak Tower, along with a shopping centre (which has some decent shops specialising in traditional Chinese goods) and several restaurants. Though not by any means unique to Hong Kong, one of the most popular of these attractions - especially for those with kids in tow - is Ripley's Believe It Or Not!, home to unusual and bizarre exhibits from around the world. There's also a branch of Madame Tussauds, the famous waxworks museum, and the Peak Explorer Motion Simulator, which is fun for families too.
It's well worth allowing time to walk the 3.5km around the peak for further breathtaking vistas over the China Sea and outlying islands - on a clear day you can see as far as Macao. If you've worked up an appetite, the most stylish spot to dine is the Peak CafÈ, an elegant restaurant furnished in Art Deco style with panoramic windows, affording superb views across the city
Peak Tram
One of the most enjoyable experiences in Hong Kong is to take the funicular railway up to the top of Victoria Peak. Though the peak tram has changed somewhat since its inception in the late 19th century, when it was built to transport the city's elite to their luxury homes and the glitzy Peak Hotel at the summit, it has retained plenty of charm. The tram now glides up the mountain on electric cables, rather than chugging along on coal-fired steam boilers as it did originally, and of course its main purpose is as a means of transport for tourists to the peak, though the tram ride is without doubt an attraction in itself.
There are regular buses from the Star ferry pier to the tram station at the base of Victoria Peak, or it's within walking distance of Central MTR station. Once you're actually on the tram, try to sit on the right to take best advantage of the view on the way up.
Aberdeen Harbour Tour
Aberdeen Harbour is a slice of old Hong Kong. People here still live in sampans and traditional Chinese junks moored in the sheltered waters. It is a completely different lifestyle to that of the big city just a few miles away.
Take a trip in a sampan around the old harbour to soak up this unique and disappearing atmosphere. You'll see the huge floating restaurants, too - spectacularly lit up at night even if they're no longer quite as fine as they once were. Eating on the water surrounded by this strangely chaotic but picturesque scene is something you'll never forget.
Temple Street Night Market
During the day this area is nothing special, but at night the road is converted into a busy and vibrant market. Don't miss out on having a browse, you never know what you might find. You're not limited to incredibly cheap clothes and electronics although they're available in abundance. Additionally you can have your fortune told, or be adventurous and try one of the many edible delicacies on display. This is one of the few places in the city centre that you may find the traders dealing solely in Cantonese but then maybe it's for the best. You'd probably rather not know which part of a snake's internal organs you're being asked to eat.
HK Central District ("Central")
The Capitalist dream rendered in steel and concrete, it's hard to believe you're actually in Communist China when you're standing in Hong Kong City centre. This is the Hong Kong that sprang up during the financial boom colonial years, when HK was all pinstriped British yuppies and skyscrapers. The crammed nature of the centre will even impress those used to big city landscapes.
Swathes of colonial architecture such as the HSBC headquarters, can still be seen along with - by way of contrast - Hong Kong Park, near Admiralty MTR, where the Flagstaff Teaware Museum is. The new rulers of Hong Kong have long had their mark on the city here though. The Bank of China Tower, all 70 storeys of it, is the best of the skyline's features.
Western District
In contrast to Central, grab a tram west, and watch the cityscape morph from Western to more typically Chinese in a few minutes. The wares hawked by the traditional medicinal vendors beggar belief, and you can spend hours browsing the antique shops and temples that have made this area their home.
The Central and Western markets are worthy of exploration while Ladder Street evokes old Hong Kong, with traditional shuttered buildings from when the area was the city's red light district, and the chosen port of call for visiting sailors of all nationalities.
Man Mo Temple
The best-known temple on Hong Kong Island, Man Mo is dedicated to the gods of Literature (Man) and War (Mo), and is venerated by both the police and the triads.
The temple pre-dates the establishment of the British colony, being first established in the early 1800s and has consequently always been of great significance in the preservation of Chinese culture in Hong Kong. It is best known for the clouds of incense billowing from the coils suspended from the roof, which cast an aromatic fug over everything. On the corner of Ladder St.
Hong Kong Trail
Those with a hankering to see behind the skyscrapers and street markets can walk the length and breadth of Hong Kong Island along the HK Trail (buy a decent map first, like the HK Trail Map produced by the Country Parks Authority). Leave your misconceptions about concrete-covered HK behind, you'll find most of the trail actually runs through the island's many country parks.
The walk allows you to see much of the other side of life on the island, particularly how the people who live at such a frantic pace in the centre choose to spend their leisure time. The full trail covers some 50km but is divided up into eight sections, none of which take more than an afternoon to walk. There are some fabulous views from above the city while the interior routes circle round woods and reservoirs.
The Kowloon Museums
The best and brightest of HK's museums are the Museums of Art, Space, Science and History, all a stone's throw from the Star Ferry or MTR at Tsim Sha Tsui (head for the distinctive Cultural Centre).
The Museum of Art (10 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui. Open: daily 10h00-18h00. Admission: HKD10, adults; HKD5, children. Tel +852 2721-0116) collection concentrates on Chinese art and antiquities while the History Museum (100 Chatham Rd South, Tsim Sha Tsui. Open: Mon, Wed-Sat 10h00-18h00; Sun 10h00-19h00. Admission: HKD10, adults; HKD5, children. Tel: +852 2724-9042) traces specifically the history of Hong Kong and the surrounding area right up to the present day.
The Travelator
For an unusual experience of Hong Kong step onto the world's longest escalator and see vignettes of local life roll by.
Officially known as Central Hillside Escalator Link, the Travelator was built in 1993 at great cost and generated much controversy at first before locals were won over by its elegant practicality. For most of the day the track runs uphill, starting at the Central Market near the waterfront on Hong Kong Island and ending at the Mid-Levels district; between 06h00-10h00 in the mornings the track runs downhill. The arrival of the escalator has brought with it a number of new restaurants and bars making hopping off at one of the many departure points for a drink or meal on the way home irresistible.
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Getting Around
Public transport in Hong Kong is extremely good, covering the city and beyond with an extensive network of modern trains, ferries and buses. On Hong Kong island you'll also find an ageing network of trams - still efficient and one of the most picturesque ways to get around.
Don't even think about car hire if you're staying within HK / Kowloon. The traffic's horrendous, the petrol staggers under a 100 per cent tax and the rates are higher than you'd expect. HK is what public transport was invented for.
To and From the Airport
Hong Kong International Airport (Chep Lap Kok)
The super-modern Chek Lap Kok airport is considered one of the world's finest. Designed by British architect Norman Foster it was the fastest and largest construction project in the world, entailing the additional construction of a massive suspension bridge for transport to the city and the artificial extension of a tiny island to accommodate the airport. It is said to be the largest enclosed space in the world. Located 24 miles from Hong Kong, getting in from Chep Lap Kok airport isn't all that cheap, no matter how you do it:
Train
Fast (very fast) and convenient, the Airport Express has three stops: Tsing Yi, West Kowloon and Central. Catch it from the Ground Transportation Centre near the exit. HKD180 for a return journey to Hong Kong Island; HKD160 to Kowloon.
Taxis
Cabs are expensive, and due to the congestion they aren't terribly fast. If you want to take a cab, make sure you catch one with a green roof for Kowloon and New Territories, one with a red roof for HK Island or a blue roofed one for Lantau Island. Budget around HKD380 for fares into downtown.
Buses
The airbus routes from the Ground Transportation Centre are all prefixed with an "A" (night bus routes are prefixed with an "N") and travel to a variety of convenient locations. Signs also indicate which hotels are served by which buses.
Dedicated airport buses are run by Cityflyer and Kowloon Motor Bus (KMB); fares range between HKD17-45 one-way depending on your destination.
Ferries
Ferry services operate between the airport and Tuen Mun in the New Territories between 06h00-22h00 daily at 30-minute intervals.
Public Transport
Public transport in Hong Kong is extremely good, covering the city and beyond with an extensive network of modern trains, ferries and buses. On Hong Kong island you'll also find an ageing network of trams - still efficient and one of the most picturesque ways to get around.
An integrated payment system is in operation. Called the "Octopuscard" it employs swipe card technology to allow you to pay for transport without using cash. You simply swipe your card at the machine on your chosen form of transport and the fare is automatically deducted from your credit.
You have to be planning on using a lot of public transport to make it worthwhile however. An octopuscard costs HKD150 (HKD50 of which is a refundable deposit, and HKD100 of which is credit). It is undoubtedly the simplest way to pay for services but is possibly only suited for longer stays or tours. Cards can be recredited using machines at transport hubs.
Tram
On the North side of HK Island, the old double-decker trams groan their way along a limited but useful selection of routes, mostly between Kennedy Town in the west to Shau Kei Wan in the east. At HKD2 a go they're hardly expensive, and a great way to get an overview of Northern Hong Kong Island.
Ferries
Ferries ply the waters all around HK. The most famous ferry route is the Star Ferry (HKD2.20 crossing) between Central and Tsim Sha Tsui, which runs very frequently, and could well be listed as a Hong Kong attraction, instead of a public transport option. You cannot use your octopuscard on the Star Ferry but other harbour ferries are part of the scheme.
There are two other HK/Kowloon routes, and then of course the links to all the outlying islands run by Hong Kong Ferry Company (HKF), which depart from the 'Outlying Islands' ferry piers in Central (some weekend ferries from the Star terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui).
Trains
The HK subway / underground is known as the MTR - Mass Transit Railway, and is fast, clean and efficient. It's not the cheapest option, compared to the low prices of trams and ferries, but for ease, comfort and convenience it can't be bettered in the city. Fares vary according to the distance of your journey - but it is extremely easy to follow the simple tube map and obtain the appropriate ticket from machines or ticket office attendants. Using an octopuscard will gain you a discount on the standard price of a ticket.
There is also the KCR (Kowloon-Canton Railway), which heads up from Hung Hom in Kowloon to the Chinese border at Lo Wu, and is a convenient and cheap option for quite a few Kowloon and NT destinations.
Buses
Buses on HK Island are the most convenient way to get to destinations on the South Side - Stanley, Shek O, and so on. In Central, the bus station is under Exchange Square. Have the correct change handy (or if you don't know how much, then have a whole load of change) to make up the fare, which can range from HKD3 to HKD30.
Miscellany
A HK original, the 'Hillside Escalator Link' - or the 'travelator' links the well-to-do Mid Levels district and the SoHo area with Central and includes the world's largest single escalator (800m long). Don't expect to see rickshaws any more, though. There may be one or two left but these are the last of a rapidly disappearing species, more designed as a tourist novelty than a genuine transport option.
Driving
There really is no point in having a car if you're staying in the city on Hong Kong or Kowloon for the entirety of your stay. If, however, you will be heading out to the New Territories, a car may be useful.
Car hire is extremely expensive in the country. You can expect the most basic of cars to set you back at least HKD250 per day and you can also expect a HKD5000 deposit to be put on your credit card in case of damage (not an unlikely occurrence on the jam-packed streets of the city). Petrol is vastly expensive and there are heavy tolls on the various tunnels and bridges that connect the islands and Kowloon.
Driving is on the left-hand side and you must overtake on the right. Generally speed limits of 50km per hour in urban areas and 80km per hour on highways are enforced - signs will indicate if further restrictions apply.
Road signs in Kowloon and Hong Kong city are in both English and Chinese. Seatbelts must be worn at all times in both front and backseats. Roadside breath screening tests can be demanded at any time by the police and co-operation is mandatory. Very stiff penalties are imposed for anyone found breaking the 50mg/100ml of alcohol/blood limit and anyone planning to drive is advised not to drink at all. Hong Kong is extremely congested and accidents are frequent.
You should drive with great care in the city and try to leave adequate distance between you and other vehicles to give you time to react to any situation. Erratic lane changes are commonplace on congested highways and you need your wits about you.
The Cross Harbour, Eastern Harbour and Western Harbour Tunnels connect Kowloon with Hong Kong Island. All are tolled. Charges vary according to time of day and vehicle and can be prohibitively high (from HKD8-HKD45). Other tunnels provide links with Hong Kong's other islands and across inlets on Kowloon.
Taxis
There are many taxis (except in rush hour). Flag them down anywhere except in bus stops and on yellow lines, and remember that you'll have to pay any tolls on top of the fare - and sometimes double the toll for the driver to get back to his 'patch'. Taxis can prove very expensive at busy times when the city gets extremely congested. Further, if you cross between Kowloon and Hong Kong, don't expect the driver to know the area intimately.
Source @ OctopusTravel.com Limited 2001-2008 
