Dubai
Things to do |
Getting around
In the middle of the desert Dubai is a 21st-century city against a beautiful prehistoric backdrop. Its spires of steel and glass rise from the seemingly endless sandscape that covers most of the United Arab Emirates.
Dubai is one of the Emirates' older settlements. Although now the money pours in from the UAE's vast reserves of oil it has always been a traders' city and in the past pearls and the lucrative spices of the East were the commodities bought and sold here. It is a venerable history that makes the city a favourite destination for tourists eager to see the wildness of the desert with modern-day comforts.
The city is nothing if not contradictory, the skyscrapers of downtown seeming more typical of Tokyo. Yet, from the top of one, you could look down on traditional dhows plying the deep water creek that divides the city, the old souks of Deira, the modern harbour of Port Rashid or out to where the great desert begins.
The Jumeirah Mosque is among the world's most stunning works of Islamic architecture while the Burj Al Arab is one of the most innovative hotel buildings, its name "The Arab Tower" symbolic of its importance to the city.
Dubai, like everywhere in the Emirates, is surprisingly cosmopolitan and you'll find international languages, cuisines and merchandise available almost everywhere. You can go to the horse races or enjoy a round of golf on a world class course - but it's impossible to forget that the great desert begins barely a tee shot away.
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Things To Do
There is more to Dubai than beaches and shopping. The city combines the strikingly modern with the timeless architecture of the mosques and ancient practices of the dhow fishermen. A fascinating world to explore.
Jumeirah Mosque
The Jumeirah Mosque is arguably one of the most impressive mosques in the world and is definitely Dubai's
architectural jewel.
Its twin minarets rise to dizzying heights either side of the vastly impressive central dome of the main building. Non-Muslims are only allowed inside on organised tours, but even from outside the mosque is staggeringly beautiful. Visit at
night for the best view when the structure is carefully floodlit, throwing its elaborate features into shadow.
Al-Jumeirah Rd. Open: Permanently open to Muslims. Admission: free.
The Souks
Deira is the most atmospheric side of the city with a distinctive Middle Eastern flavour. This is best exemplified in the area's souks, the traditional markets of Arabia.
You can see why Dubai has been called the "City of Gold" in the
Gold Souk, a lively market littered with jewellers and craftsmen selling all manner of gold artefacts, including jewellery. It is far more than an opportunity to shop, you should admire the arched entrance and soak up the vibrant atmosphere as well as keeping an eye out for a bargain or two. It is impossible to fail to soak up something of the atmosphere of the Perfume Souk next door, just follow your nose to where craftsmen create unique perfumes from careful blends of spices.
More aromatic entertainment can be had in the spice sellers' area of the Old Souk by the river. The Old Souk also does a good line in just about anything else, make sure you check out the rugs and carpets.
Bastakiya
Head back through the ages by taking a tour of the Bastakiya district. The
oldest part of the city, the area contains the best preserved examples of the old wind towers that were once used all over Dubai to keep the local houses cool. They would funnel any breeze down into the building in the earliest form of air-conditioning. It is an atmospheric place of great historical interest. A museum, art gallery and cultural centre offer further attractions but most people enjoy merely wandering the streets of the district soaking up the ambience of old Dubai.
East of the Dubai Souk on Al Fahidi St.
Dubai Museum
The building that houses the Dubai Museum,
Al Fahidi Fort, was once an important part of the city's defences and has variously operated as a palace and a prison at various times during its history.
It is thought to be Dubai's oldest building, perhaps surprisingly considering it was only built in 1787. The building is now home to an eclectic collection of exhibits that includes manmade artefacts recovered from various archaeological sites, dating back as far as 2500BC. The fort also contains an impressive range of military artefacts.
Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum's House
Dating back to the late 1800s, Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum's House on Al Shindagha Road is one of the oldest residences in Dubai. Built in
traditional Islamic style, around a central courtyard, the house has been much restored and now approaches what it must have looked like when first built. The windtowers are of note, but as much care has gone into restoring the interior, and the woodwork - including carved screens and elegant balustrades - is particularly fine.
According to local stories the house was built on the Bur Dubai bank of the creek in order to enable the Sheikh to keep a running tally of trade entering and leaving the city. It is easy to believe with its position on the banks of the creek offering some great views out to sea.
Previously the seat of government and the official residence for several generations of Sheikh rulers of the Emirate the house was eventually reopened as a
museum in 1986. With a collection of photography and small artefacts it traces the development of Dubai as it turned from desert township to international city.
Grand Mosque
Not as striking as the Jumeirah there is no doubting that the Grand Mosque beats its older rival hands down for
sheer scale.
Only re-built in 1998 the Grand Mosque boasts the city's tallest minaret at 70m and can comfortably accommodate hundreds of Muslim worshippers at a time. The main building comprises an amazing
nine major domes and many smaller ones. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter but even if you can only view the outside you can't fail to be impressed.
Jumeirah Hotel & Burj Al Arab (Arab Tower)
These twin hotels have become
symbols of modern Dubai. Both hotels offer some of the best entertainment and most elegant dining and shopping in the city.
The Jumeirah Beach Hotel dates back to the 1990s and boasts incredible sweeping lines of glass looking out to sea on the edge of golden Jumeirah beach.
Its even more spectacular sibling was only opened in December 1999. The "
Arab Tower" looks like it has just emerged from the set of a sci-fi movie, stretching high into the heavens and occupying its own manmade island. The billowing sail shape makes it one of the most
spectacular hotels in the world, architecturally speaking. The restaurant and skyview bar on the 27th floor of the Burj Al Arab accesses the best views in the city, stretching along the coast or inland across modern Dubai.
Heritage and Diving Village
The 21st century meets the old Bedouin way of life in the Dubai Heritage Village. In the traditional tented village visitors can enjoy dancing, music and
Bedouin hospitality, as well as buy handicrafts.
In the diving village the exhibitions and displays concentrate on the region's centuries of history as a pearl diving centre. Fleets of dhows have been diving the Gulf waters around here since before the birth of Christ and the
pearl industry in no small part helped to establish Dubai as a trading centre. The labour intensive industry is a fascinating subject - traditional divers could spend several minutes underwater hunting for the precious commodity. Many of the artefacts on display are from the Jumeirah archaeological site, where the remains of a 6th-century souk were discovered.
Dhow Wharf
Dhows are trading vessels that have for centuries plied the waters of the Arabian Gulf and further afield. In modern hi-tech Dubai they make a strange sight as they shuffle off their cargo at the wharf on Dubai Creek and stock up with another load of jeans, cloth or even cars. It is a fascinating bit of
living history, although the cargo may have changed, the way of life on board a dhow hasn't.
The boats are still made from wood by craftsmen as they always have been, and seeing the crew repairing and painting their vessel is a great way to while away some time. There are plenty of cheap restaurants around here too, and the dhow crews, although they look hardy, are usually
friendly and always interested in practising their languages on tourists.
Dhow Wharf, Dubai Creek. Open: 24 hours daily. Admission: free
Jumeirah Beach
This is the famous beach that is now home to many of Dubai's best hotels. The smooth white sand may be lined with modern development, but the waters are
clean and clear and there's plenty of space on the beach for Dubai's increasing number of tourist visitors.
You can enjoy windsurfing or sailing in the calm shallows or simply choose to lie on the sands and paddle in the gulf's
warm water. Be aware that some parts of the beach are closed to men on Saturdays.
Al-Jumeirah Rd, next to Marine Beach Resort. Admission: free.
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Getting Around
The only public transport option in and around Dubai is the bus and this can get pretty crowded at peak hours. Taxis are widely available and cheap, and represent a better option for getting around the city particularly if you don't know the language.
To and From the Airport
Dubai International Airport
Dubai International Airport is located 5km south-east of Dubai. Tel: +971 (0)4-224-5555.
Buses
Buses leave for the city from the airport every 10 minutes between 06h00-22h00. The average journey time is around 20 minutes, depending on traffic, and the cost is only
AED1.
Taxis
Dedicated airport taxis can be booked in the arrival hall located after customs and passport formalities. These taxis charge a fixed
AED30 for destinations in the city centre.
Public Transport
Currently there is no rail network in Dubai. The only way of getting around is the fairly comprehensive
bus network.
Buses
Dubai's
municipal bus service isn't the best you've ever seen but nor is it the worst either. It is relatively easy to find your way around with a tourist map and you'll find that routes are generally posted in English as well as in Arabic. There isn't a standard fare system and you'll pay up to AED4 for a journey, although a short trip should only cost you as little as AED1.
Drivers issue tickets but do not give change so make sure you have the
exact fare ready - sometimes of course it's hard to know what that is so carry a fistful of change at all times if you're planning on catching buses.
Various bus
passes are available from main bus stations, including a smart card that gives you additional credit above its initial cost. Monthly unlimited transport passes are available for travel on either side of the creek but unless you are enjoying a very extended stay in the city you are unlikely to choose this option.
Local vessels
The
Abra boats, small wooden vessels, cross the creek from Bur Dubai to the Textile Souk area in Deira from early morning until midnight each day. They are undoubtedly the most enjoyable part of the public transport network in the city. The short jaunt costs AED1.
Driving
Driving in Dubai can be
hectic and it's not advisable unless you feel pretty confident. That said the road network (as throughout the United Arab Emirates) is excellent. In Dubai itself the roads are generally two, three or four lanes wide and everything is well signposted in Arabic and English. But navigating is the least of the problems - it's other road users you have to watch out for.
Traffic generally keeps flowing but Dubai drivers are
aggressive, driving close together and fast. Erratic lane changes and overtaking manoeuvres are commonplace and you should always try to allow for cars in front of you doing anything - not easy when the car behind you seems keen on getting into your boot.
Accidents, as you might expect, are not infrequent and every single one, regardless of severity,
must be reported to the police.
Traffic drives on the
right hand side of the road and you must wear a seatbelt at all times - not that you'll need much persuading after you experience the traffic for the first time. You must be 21 or older to drive. A valid international driving permit, passport and two passport-sized photographs are required in order to hire a car in Dubai. If you don't possess an international licence you can obtain a temporary local licence as long as you can produce a national licence from any of the following: EEA countries, Switzerland, Turkey, Poland, USA, Canada, Japan, South Korea, Singapore, Australia and New Zealand.
The rates for a standard hire car start from AED150 per day. Major car hire firms can be found at the airport and in the city centre.
Taxis
Dubai's cream coloured cabs are widely available throughout the city and can either be hailed on the street or pre-booked. All official cabs are
metered for short journeys and should employ a fixed fare system for out of town locations. The tariff is around AED1.20 per kilometre but it is unlikely you'll be going too far.
Don't be too surprised if the meter is "broken", it just means that you'll have to indulge in a bit of
negotiation. Unlicensed mini-cabs are common and drivers may directly approach you on the street. Expect to pay around AED5-8 for a cab ride across the city centre, but a bit of haggling never hurts. During peak hours when traffic is bad you will naturally pay more.
Cabs are also available for day hire, expect to pay around AED500 (approx. USD140), which isn't bad if you plan on travelling around a lot in the same day.
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